By special guest writer, Andrew Forsyth
Ode’ to Cabernet. September 2nd is International Cabernet Sauvignon Day so today we pay a tribute to this magnificent king of grapes. It hails from every corner of the world and is deserving of a red carper entrance with booming yet refined music to match for this power hitter.
Chalk it up to versatility, appeal, ageability or any of the multitude of other qualities, Cabernet Sauvignon has produced some of the greatest wines in the world. It is a championship winning pairing for your BBQ steaks and big roasts, it can perform masterfully on its own or as a key player on a team, and it grows anywhere there is a lengthier growing season.
No matter the region, you can count on a few universal characteristics that set Cabernet Sauvignon apart. First, it is grape that makes very structured wines – namely that it has slightly higher acidity, is fuller bodied, richly coloured, and has considerably higher tannins. This makes it the perfect candidate for aging in oak to smooth out the palate and makes it very ageable. Whoever coined the phrase “ages like a fine wine” was probably talking about Cabernet Sauvignon when they dreamt it up.
As for taste, we are firmly in dark fruit territory with blackcurrant, black cherry and blackberry leading the charge. That said, the staggering complexity of Cabernet comes from its accents – graphite minerality, mint, cedar, aged leather, pipe tobacco and cocoa. All of that complimented with baking spices and a hint of vanilla from judicious oak aging and these wines become magic.
But how do you keep track of a grape that seemingly grows everywhere? Let’s start in Bordeaux where Cabernet began its career a few centuries ago as the offspring of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Here on the left bank in Bordeaux you will find some of the most famous expressions of Cabernet as a principle blending partner with Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot.
Top ranked growth wines from this area can be ethereal in the right vintage but are also insanely high priced. For those looking for an introduction to Bordeaux Cabernet-based blends I would recommend the L’Espirit de Belliard from Graves. This wine exhibits the hallmark black fruits of a Cabernet mixed with spice, wood notes and highlights the graphite minerality that is typical of the terroir. Try at cellar temperature with BBQ pork roast and summer berries.
Elsewhere in the world, the Cabernet-led blends are often referred to on labels as “Bordeaux Blend” or “Meritage”. From South Africa to California, Italy to the Okanagan, these wines offer fantastic value and quality while lending their own character to Bordeaux’s famed blending tradition.
If you’re looking for stellar New World examples, they are readily available from our own backyard. My two favourites gracing the shelves at JAK’s are the Clos du Soleil ‘Celeste’ and Osoyoos Larose ‘Petales d’Osoyoos’. Both are drinking great in their youth and will continue to develop for years.
In California you are sure to get a much richer, fruit driven style of Cabernet with Napa Valley being the most famed region for quality production. Look for big, bold flavours of cassis, black cherry, black plum, Ceylon cinnamon, mint and vanilla. The premium bottle of choice is Freemark Abbey’s Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. For more affordable options outside of Napa, look to regions such as Sonoma and Paso Robles.
Other new world examples can hail from BC, Chile, Washington State…the list goes on. However, I find great value in Graceland Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch, South Africa. South Africa boasts some of the best red wine growing regions in the world and this bottle is a great example of what Stellenbosch is all about. In Coonawarra, you’ll notice a distinct eucalyptus note indicative of this region and contributes a cool note to grilled lamb dishes. Try the Katnook Founder’s Block.
Whatever the country or style, help us celebrate International Cabernet Sauvignon Day today. Be sure to pop in to one of our shops and find the perfect pairing for your end of summer BBQ.
Cheers!
Grano o Grano Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles-California) - $29.99
Outstanding fruit is sourced from the top Paso Robles vineyards to create this rich and full Cabernet Sauvignon. Brimming with dark fruits and mingled with vanilla and earthy spices make for a delicious taste experience. Any grilled meats would offer a perfect pairing!
L’Espirit de Belliard Graves (Bordeaux-France) - $43.99
This wine exhibits the hallmark fruit of a Cabernet meshed with exotic spice and the cedary wood notes in combination with the graphite minerality that is typical of the terroir. Try at cellar temperature with BBQ pork roast and summer berries.
About the Author
Andrew Forsyth is a sommelier at L’abattoir Restaurant in Vancouver who also moonlights at Jak’s South Granville location. He currently holds the title of Sommelier of the Year from Wines of British Columbia and is working towards his Advanced Sommelier designation.