Oh Chardonnay! You beautiful, misunderstood, magnificent grape you! I know there are people out there who have been offended by Chardonnay. At some point they came across a version that they really didn’t like and swore it off. Perhaps it was a case of mistaken identity with not liking too oaky of a wine. However, if you had a falling out at some point in your wine experience then now is a time to rediscover this beautiful grape in all of its versatile glory just in time for summer!
Firstly, Chardonnay is incredibly malleable - a winemaker’s grape that takes on an amazing range of fruit flavours depending on where it’s grown. In cooler climates, it is laser-focused, ranging from citrus and minerality to tart apple and pear notes. With warmer climates, it gains tropical notes of mango, pineapple or an array of orchard stone fruit.
It has an even greater array of character with a skilled winemaker at the helm who like a painter with his pallet can mold its style accordingly. It can be lusciously creamy and buttery or perhaps an added kiss of caramel from oak leading all the way to strong Tahitian vanilla notes. If left to sit and stir on its lees, it will add texture and notes of unbaked bread to brioche lending to the complexity.
Simply put, there are too many styles to not fall in love with Chardonnay. So let’s take a look at a couple of different stylistic gems that you can find on the shelves.
For true appreciation of this world class grape, we need to start our discussion in Burgundy (Bourgogne), France. Although wine history is a bit fuzzy about the true origin of Chardonnay, its greatest expressions have undoubtably come from this famed region in central France. It is important to note that in Bourgogne (as in most of France), the label will indicate where the wine is from, not what grape is in the bottle.
Starting in the north of the Burgundy region, we find Chablis, here you’ll find laser-focused Chardonnays with racy acidity and flavours of granny smith apple, tart citrus and oyster shell and rarely find oak aging. Great for oysters on the half shell!
The further south in Burgundy you travel, the warmer the climate and the riper your Chardonnay is likely to be. This is where you will start finding wines that beautifully layer fruit, minerality and oak. Balanced and luxurious with ripe yellow apple, bosc pear, underripe white peach and lemon curd – be still my heart!
For a special treat I would recommend Boyer-Martinot Meursault En L’Ormeau; for the everyday, a bottle of Cave de Lugny La Carte from Macon works nicely. These wines are wonderfully versatile and will make beautiful patio sippers as much as they’ll pair with buttery seafood or herbed chicken dishes (did someone say spot prawns?).
Jumping the pond over to the new world, South Africa, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and the USA all make some stunning expressions of Chardonnay that run the gambit from tart and energetic to fun and tropical.
In BC, my go-to producers of Chardonnay are Lightning Rock (mixture of tart and tropical), Tantalus (lemon curd, spice, ripe peaches), and Blue Mountain Winery (citrus, peach and beautifully floral). I have also been loving the Jak’s Gratitude Chardonnay as a patio sipper on some of the warmer spring days. To pair these wines - as the adage goes - what grows together goes together and Chardonnay with any of our amazing West Coast seafood makes a beautiful pairing.
Now, you cannot have a Chardonnay conversation without including California. There are so many stunning Chardonnays from the USA that to throw them all under a bus of vanilla and creamed corn would be criminal. Yes, there are a lot of luscious buttery Chardonnays out there, but if that’s not your style it’s okay – I think they have a place on every table right next to lobster.
For those looking for balanced, firmly American-in-style, look no further than Artesa from Los Carneros or the Buehler from Russian River. Here you will find a balance of oak, crème brulee, and ripe stone fruit, both showing great representation of high-quality California.
To pair these wines, especially those with slightly higher alcohol, think of bigger foods. I love these Chardonnays with BBQ during the summer as well as meals like roasted pork where sweeter glazes or sauces are in play.
The wines from Oregon and Washington States from typically cooler climates are also worth seeking out. Ponzi, Lingua Franca, and Brown Family Vineyards all deserve a place at your table.
No matter what your style or meal, come by and have a chat with one of our wine specialists and discover a new style of Chardonnay to toast International Chardonnay Day on May 27th!
Buehler Russian River Chardonnay, California - $36.99
A beautiful balance of fresh acidity combined with stone fruits, pear and ginger. Lingering toasty notes show on the finish from time spent ageing in French oak. Awarded 91 points by James Suckling.
JAK’S Gratitude Chardonnay, Okanagan - $ 21.99
Start your day with Chardonnay sourced from vineyards in south Oliver. Aged for two years in neutral oak barrels, this wine offers a creamy texture mingled with citrus fruits and balanced by bright acidity.
Blog written by Andrew Forsyth
Andrew Forsyth is a sommelier at L’abattoir Restaurant in Vancouver who also moonlights at Jak’s South Granville location. He currently holds the title of Sommelier of the Year from Wines of British Columbia and is working towards his Advanced Sommelier designation.